Pedestals

Pedestals are used to build raised (technical) floating floors. They’re made mainly of polypropylene, resistant to UV, wide temperature swings, and corrosive agents. They come in various sizes, support heavy loads, and are adjustable.

Advantages of using pedestals

• very durable, support heavy loads (maximum load/pedestal = 2 tons)

• allow balanced weight distribution

• provide space for cable and pipe runs and hide the base layer

• create a flat, easily accessible surface

• compensate for unevenness in the base layer

• absorb certain surface movements

• allow easy drainage and good ventilation

• allow air to circulate under the floor (cooling)

• can be easily disassembled and reused

• provide better thermal and acoustic insulation

• don’t affect waterproofing

• installed without adhesives or grout

• can reduce noise by up to 25 dB

Compared to classic raised-floor support systems (on metal load-bearing frames), pedestal systems are affordable, reliable, versatile, easy to install and maintain, and compatible with LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) programs.

Types of pedestals

1. Adjustable pedestal for installing tile paving

• designed to support outdoor flooring made of wood, stone, ceramic, metal, composite, or fiberglass. Installed on a stable substrate or on insulating panels.

• made of polypropylene (90%) and talc (10%)

• resistant to UV radiation, freeze-thaw cycles, salts, and certain chemicals

• working temperature between -40°C and +120°C

• made up of:

• the base itself (with drainage holes), 200 mm in diameter (covering 315 cm²), placed on the base layer. Cut when placed in a corner or against a wall.

• a height-adjustment ring, 150 mm in diameter (covering 176 cm²), fitted onto the base, used to adjust height

• a head piece, 150 mm in diameter, fitted onto the adjustment ring. The spacer and gasket are fitted onto the head piece

• an extender piece – adds height and allows it to vary, 120 mm in diameter. Fitted onto the adjustment ring.

• a locking ring – locks the assembly at a given height, fitted onto the adjustment ring and the extender. 150 mm in diameter. Easily removed when not needed

• a spacer (thicknesses of 2mm, 3.5mm, 5mm, 8mm, 10mm). Determines tile spacing, affecting drainage and ventilation

• a rubber gasket (1 or 2 mm thick). Absorbs shocks, compensates for thickness differences between flooring elements, and is anti-slip

Accessories

• Slope corrector

• made of polypropylene (90%) and talc (10%)

• for correcting slope (range 0-5%). Installed under the 200 mm diameter base, if needed.

• made up of 2 round pieces, 4-8 mm thick

• dimensions: piece 1 diameter = 210 mm, piece 2 diameter = 223 mm. Assembled together, both pieces add 13 mm thickness (at 0%) and 18 mm (at 5%) to the pedestal’s height.

• UV-resistant

• working temperature between -40°C and +120°C

• accommodates slopes of 0.5-1-1.5-2-2.5-3-3.5-4-4.5-5%

• stainless steel pieces, used for edge closures on cladding or for corner/edge pedestals. Allow rigid installation for cut tiles. Fitted onto the head piece or under the base.

• Anti-slip gasket (for 200 mm diameter bases) – fitted under the base

• A head piece for installing a floating floor on a beam (joist) support.

2. Fixed-height pedestal for installing tile paving

• the fastest, most economical solution for floating floors

• fixed-height pedestal, available in 2 models: 12.5 mm and 16 mm heights

• made of 4.5-6 mm thick polypropylene (90%) and talc (10%)

• resistant to UV radiation, freeze-thaw cycles, salts, and certain chemicals

• dimensions: 150 mm diameter (covers 176 cm²)

• working temperature between -40°C and +120°C

Pedestal installation follows these steps:

116. Measure the height the floor needs to be installed at (with a tape measure). Determine the pedestal height. This is the floor installation height minus the thickness of the stone tile. (E.g.: if the required raised-floor height is H = 50 cm and the tile thickness is g = 3 cm, then the pedestal height is h = H – g, i.e. h = 50 – 3 = 47 cm (470 mm). Choose a pedestal from the catalog with a height in the 35-58 cm (350-580 mm) range. In this example, that’s the MB-T3 with 2 extender pieces (about 76 mm height each). This option also allows fitting a slope corrector.

117. Mark the determined height on the wall with colored string. Check flatness with a level. The base layer must slope toward the drain.

118. Calculate the number of pedestals needed and draw a layout plan (marked out on site)

119. Start installation from the corners and edges. Bases are cut for placement near a wall (edges, corners). The cut base piece is placed on the base layer. The base has drainage holes. Extensions providing the required floor height are then fitted, along with locking rings, then the head piece with spacer and gasket. Removable tabs are cut off depending on tile layout. Stainless steel strips can be installed in place of the spacer.

120. Pedestals are installed, starting with the corners, then along the perimeter, and finally in the center. Tiles are laid one by one, snapping off the tabs so the tiles don’t shift.

121. Height is continuously checked and adjusted to ensure the floor is flat. Height is adjusted to compensate for unevenness in the base surface; the system typically compensates for up to 5%.

What you should know if you’re using natural stone tiles

Natural stone is a hard, durable, eco-friendly, one-of-a-kind, versatile material that performs well outdoors. These qualities make natural stone tiles a natural choice for raised floors, indoors and outdoors, in wet environments, under sunlight, or in the wind. Its color variation gives every installation its own uniqueness. That’s why choosing natural stone tiles for raised floors makes sense. Any type of natural stone can be used, though the choice is influenced by the rock’s intrinsic characteristics, dimensions, environmental conditions, and surface traffic level. Tiles 2-4 cm thick, square (preferably 60×60 cm) or rectangular, are recommended. Rectified tiles work best.

Tips & tricks

• remove all tabs from corner pedestals and fit stainless steel clip pieces instead; these keep tiles from resting against the wall, allowing water drainage and easy ventilation.

• install perimeter pedestals using stainless steel tabs as well

• if you don’t install the stainless steel pieces, place the tile on the pedestal about 3 mm from the wall

• constantly check flatness in every direction; correct deviations immediately

• use fixed-height pedestals whenever base-layer unevenness is small and can be compensated for with the slope corrector

• the substrate layout system allows pedestal placement close to the actual position; alternatively, tile-by-tile installation can be used, starting from a corner

• corner closure and fixing, with stone tiles cut to the right size, is done using 2 stainless steel pieces mounted in a cross

• another option for other types of flooring is installation on wood beams, in which case the head piece differs

• Maximum load levels (per testing)