INFODIY

1. Dry layout – done to arrange stone tiles well on a surface; it also has the advantage of letting you arrange tiles by the color variation you want.

Recommended steps:

• finding the center of the area: a 3-4-5 triangle can be used to find the center (these are Pythagorean numbers and always form a right triangle)

• once the center is marked, draw two lines extending the triangle’s sides; these will be perpendicular, and tiles are placed along them, side by side, in a row, with spacers between them

• if, once you reach the wall, the row ends with a piece under half a tile wide, it’s best to shift the center to avoid small cuts and allow larger tiles at the edges

• place four tiles side by side (two by two), with joints between them, forming a square or rectangle

• measure its dimensions and make a template, continuing this pattern close to the edge. A cardboard template can be made, or a chalk mark drawn on the floor.

• measure the edge tiles and mark them clearly across the whole tile

• cut the tile using a saw with stone-cutting blades

2. How a notched trowel works

The notched trowel is an essential installation tool. The notches help set the thickness of the adhesive layer and also create grooves between the ridges. These let air escape when the tile is pressed onto the substrate, avoiding adhesion and leveling problems. A square (rectangular) notched trowel creates regularly shaped adhesive ridges and grooves, using more adhesive than V-notched (U-notched) trowels. Square-notched trowels are recommended for larger tiles, and U(V)-notched ones for small tiles (mosaics). For vertical cladding, U(V)-notched trowels are recommended. Depending on tile size, square-notched trowels are used for large tiles. V-notched trowels are used when a solid bed is needed, and U-notched ones for a softer bed (covering about 70% of the tile).

3. Top 8 essential tools and equipment for installation

• Tile-cutting machine – a guillotine-style machine for thin tiles, and an electric one for all tile types. The machine can have a work table or be portable.

• Diamond blades for stone – these must be compatible with the type of cutting machine you have

• An electric mixer for mixing powdered materials (adhesive, grout)

• A mixing bucket

• A notched trowel – a very important tool, and its choice should be made carefully. It’s recommended to use notched trowels of different shapes and sizes within the same project.

• A grout applicator – a spatula (squeegee) that helps spread grout into the joints between tiles. Grout is applied diagonally. For spreading grout on horizontal surfaces, holding the trowel at a 45° angle is recommended, and for vertical surfaces, a smaller angle (30°) is recommended.

• A leveling system – helps maintain a consistent level across a clad surface

• Joint spacers – from simple toothpicks to small crosses; the most recommended are those for 2-3 mm wide joints.

4. How to avoid thin edge strips

In many cases, narrow strips are left where two planes meet (wall-to-floor or wall-to-wall). Covering them requires cutting a thin strip from a stone tile. Besides looking bad, this also makes the area harder to maintain. To avoid these strips and get larger tiles instead, add the strip’s width to the tile’s length and divide the result by two. This gives the size of the first and last tile in the row, which will always be larger than half the original tile. Tiles are cut to these dimensions and installed. This avoids thin strips at the end of a row.

5. How to grout and clean the surface correctly

Grouting is done using squeegee-type applicators, preferably rubber. These are used especially for cement-based or epoxy grouts. For spreading grout on horizontal surfaces, holding the spatula at a 45° angle is recommended, and for vertical surfaces, a smaller angle (30°) is recommended. A cellulose sponge is used to clean off grout. For denser epoxy grouts, a float with abrasive powder is used. Both methods remove grout well if used at about an 80° angle. Cleaning at this angle doesn’t pull grout out of the joints. If residue remains on the tile surface after removing excess grout, it’s removed with a damp sponge.

6. How many tiles are needed to clad a surface, based on tile size

E.g., cladding 1 sqm with 10 x 10 cm slate tiles requires 100 tiles; with 5 x 30 cm tiles, 67 tiles are needed.

For purchasing, an extra 10% is recommended for standard, classic cladding (each row repeats the previous one’s position) or for offset cladding (each row shifts by half a tile), and 15% for diagonal or herringbone layouts. For tiles of varying sizes (e.g. French Pattern), order 10% extra. If the surface to be clad has an unusual shape (with many angles and rounded areas), tile consumption will be higher, and the total quantity to buy must be calculated accordingly. The simplest approach is to consider the maximum surface obtained by extending beyond corners or rounded areas to a square or rectangular shape, which makes it easy to calculate the number of tiles.

7. Why sealing before grouting is recommended

Grouting natural stone cladding joints is a delicate operation (especially indoors, where joints are narrow). Certain types of natural stone (travertine, marble, limestone, onyx, slate) can get scratched while grout is being applied to the joints. Grout often fills small gaps or pits in stone tiles, which are natural to that stone type or finish (e.g. travertine, flamed granite). Applying grout can also affect the shine of polished tiles, dulling them at the edges.

To avoid these issues, sealing before grouting is recommended. This should be done on the tiles only, since sealing the joints can affect grout adhesion. For sealing, it’s best to use an impregnator (a deep-penetrating sealant).

8. How to clad an exterior wall corner

Cladding an exterior wall corner uses specially processed stone pieces. A few useful tips:

• always start cladding a row from the corner, continuing with a long tile, leaving cut tiles toward the middle of the row

• after dry-fitting the stone without adhesive, check flatness with a level

• the corner tile is the same piece; choose the correct installation side, checking edge alignment

• corner tiles are installed alternately, one on each side

9. What to keep in mind when grouting

Not all natural stone cladding is grouted. Some is a matter of customer choice, while other cases are determined by necessity (exterior cladding with polygonal stone of varying thickness, grouting travertine). Whether to grout plays a major role in how the final cladding looks. When it is done, grouting is influenced by certain factors:

• grout color – this matters a great deal; grout color can contrast with the stone or match its tone. Depending on the choice, the final look of the cladding is completely different.

• grouting technique – especially important when choosing the look of vertical cladding with polygonal stone. A modern or rustic look also comes from the grouting technique. If grouting covers the stone’s edges, the grout will play a big role in the final look, and in such cases, grout color is chosen to match the stone. If classic grouting is chosen (with the stone’s edges exposed), the grout matters less to the final look.

• joint size – this depends on where it’s installed; indoors, smaller joints are left, or tiles are installed without joints. Outdoors, joints are larger, so cladding isn’t affected by yearly freeze-thaw cycles.

• grout type – depends on where it’s installed. Cement-based grouts are water-resistant (low-water-absorption grouts), but not fully waterproof.

• finishing the grout in the joints – a tool with a rounded or semi-rounded tip is used, or a small spoon, or even a finger. The grout in the joints is smoothed, pressing slightly to create a small groove that helps water drain.

10. From ordering to installing a backing panel

An essential kitchen element, a backing panel takes the brunt of splashes from corrosive food products or stray kitchen tools. So choosing the right material for it matters too. Natural stone has all the right qualities: it’s durable, attractive, non-toxic, and keeps its properties over time. It suits any design style, in private or restaurant kitchens, indoors or outdoors. Here are a few useful tips from ordering to installation:

• measure the dimensions and calculate the area before ordering. To cover any losses, whether during installation, repairs, maintenance work, or cutting smaller tiles needed to clad tight spaces, order 5-7% extra tiles.

• make a plan, and make sure you have all the tools needed for installation, along with the right adhesives and treatment solutions. Do a dry layout.

• before installation, make sure the surface is flat, clean, dry, and able to bond well.

• apply sealant before installation; it helps protect the cladding and preserve its appearance

11. What to keep in mind for installation work

As a customer who’s invested money in a project, you’ll certainly want to make sure the final result matches what you envisioned. Here are a few tips worth keeping in mind:

• choose an installation crew from several options; a friend’s recommendation isn’t always the best fit

• check the crew before work begins; make sure you’re working with qualified stone installers, not overnight-converted ceramic tilers. Installation technique differs, so use people who know stone installation best.

• check references – if installers are affiliated with a stone supplier, they’ll have a solid portfolio and come recommended by that supplier. It also gives you assurance you can keep track of the job, with the arrival of ordered tiles coordinated with the installation schedule.

• check the installation steps and technique to be used before work starts. A typical sequence of steps might be:

• demolishing old cladding and cleaning the substrate,

• carrying out prep work (pouring screed, plastering, applying waterproofing)

• preparing the substrate, based on its type

• inspecting the tiles against industry-standard tolerances,

• doing a dry layout

• choosing and checking adhesives

• choosing tools and work equipment

• the actual installation, addressing specifics under site conditions (cutting, coring, working around pipes, etc.)

• choosing grout and grouting

• applying the right treatment for natural stone cladding (cleaning and sealing)

• choose the stone type and tile size; also consult the installation crew leader on this, since they can offer useful suggestions on layout type

• make sure standards, steps, and technique are followed as agreed before work starts; don’t cut corners on fire-safety and workplace-safety rules

• visually check the surfaces and how tiles were installed – tap a tile’s surface gently with a hard object; the sound tells you about bonding quality, revealing any air pockets under the tile.

Plan the work in detail and follow through on execution; this way, you’re assured of getting the project you wanted.

How to remove efflorescence from concrete pavers

If you have concrete pavers in your yard, you’re certainly familiar with the whitish stains that appear on the surface. Milky in appearance, they invariably cover large areas and spoil the look of pavers, especially colored ones.

Salt deposits, appearing on paver surfaces as small piles of white dust, are also common not just in your yard or garden, but in most public spaces paved with concrete.

Want to know how they form, why, and how to get rid of these stains? Read the article below and get to work!

Why efflorescence is natural on concrete pavers

Everyone knows concrete is a mix where cement acts as the binder. Ordinary cement is a mix of silicates and oxides; without getting too deep into the chemistry, it’s enough to know this mix contains limestone, which, through a reaction, produces calcium oxide (quicklime), releasing carbon dioxide. Calcium oxide sits quietly in the concrete pavers in your yard, but it’s soluble in water, so with the first rain or snow, it turns into calcium hydroxide (slaked lime) and rises to the paving surface, where it reacts with carbon dioxide in the air and precipitates as calcium carbonate, releasing water in the process, which then evaporates.

This chemical reaction happens every time moisture reaches the concrete pavers. So the appearance of white calcium carbonate dust is inevitable; efflorescence (as these stains are called) is a natural byproduct. All cement-based products can be affected, and among paving, darker-colored pavers especially.

There are 2 types of efflorescence: one that results from the manufacturing process, typical on new paving (usually fading within the first year after installation), affecting large areas evenly; the second appears on older paving, as a result of external factors, causing uneven, localized effects. The effects of efflorescence: faded colors, a visually dirty-looking paving, deep discoloration, an impression of neglected surfaces.

What to do to avoid the effects of efflorescence

The first line of defense comes from manufacturers, who add additives to concrete to try to block the capillary migration of calcium hydroxide. Results vary and can’t stop the process entirely.

Once you own the pavers, it’s a good idea to avoid exposing them to moisture. Don’t store paving directly on the ground, and keep it covered. Efflorescence can fade on its own and only affects the cladding’s appearance, though the process can take years.

How to remove white stains from concrete pavers

The solution PIATRAONLINE proposes and has tested is LTP Cement Grout & Salt Residue Remover, a specialized detergent designed to remove salt deposits from the surface of concrete, unpolished natural stone, brick, ceramic, and terracotta paving. This detergent uses “acid replacement” technology and has the advantage of being cost-effective, since the product can be diluted based on the level of contamination. The effect is fast but not permanent; reducing rain exposure (through sealing) substantially slows the process. Use CEMENT GROUT & SALT RESIDUE REMOVER for proper cleaning; using non-specialized detergents can damage the paving’s appearance.

How to remove stains from paving in your yard

Paving and pavers in your yard have one consistent enemy: moisture! It causes mold, lichen, algae, rust, efflorescence, and water stains.

Visible effects on stone and cement paving:

134. whitish, milky-looking stains = efflorescence, on concrete paving and occasionally on natural stone

135. black/yellow/green stains, in shaded areas = organic stains (mold, algae, lichen, fungi)

136. rust-colored stains, discoloration = rust stains, especially on granite paving

137. dark stains, like shadows at the edges of pavers = water stains, from water present underneath the paving.

How to restore stained paving following the REP method (Rapid – Economical – Practical):

1. RAPID – find the right detergent on piatraonline.com. Depending on the stain type:

• LTP Cement Grout Salt Residue Remover for efflorescence

• LTP Black Spot & Algae Remover for mold, algae, lichen, fungi

• LTP Ferrex for discoloration and rust stains on granite, slate, or sandstone paving

Choose the detergent and order it online, pay on delivery, or pick it up directly from our location at Aleea Teișani 137A.

2. ECONOMICAL – wash the paving with detergent, following the instructions. To prevent stains from coming back: seal the surface or replace the paving. Compare the total cost of treatment (cleaning + sealing) against the cost of fully replacing the paving.

3. PRACTICAL – 3 steps:

• remove stains and clean the surface with a specialized detergent, then wash with Grimex (a universal detergent with stripping and degreasing properties)

• apply sealant for protection against dust, water, grease, and certain stains

• maintain by washing with water or a neutral detergent

Why choose PIATRAONLINE products for the paving in your yard

• PIATRAONLINE is the exclusive distributor of LTP, the UK’s leading brand in this field

• PIATRAONLINE never recommends a product without testing it first

• PIATRAONLINE offers free after-sales technical support

Avoid wasting money on unbranded commercial solutions. Always apply the REP method when buying PIATRAONLINE treatment products.